Draft — Jay Austin
In July of 2017, we loaded our bicycles onto a plane and flew to Cape Town. Over the next five months, we cycled thousands of kilometers through South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, Zambia, Malawi, and Tanzania, flying out of Dar es Salaam in December (and continuing our journey in Europe). . .
We learned a lot. We learned plenty about the places we visited and the people we met. We learned about how to pack and prepare for a very-long-distance bike tour. We learned about the difficulties and challenges and joys and rewards of cycling across southern and eastern Africa. We took some notes about what we learned.
These are our notes, intended for those planning a similar journey. Truthfully, if you're planning a similar journey, you don't really need them. Get a bike, get a tent, and go have fun. None of this information is terribly essential, and all can be figured out on the way.
But sometimes it's nice to have an idea of what to expect. Your experience might (and will) differ from ours. This is not a definitive guide to bike touring Africa; it is simply a really big collection of things we've written that will present one (or two) perspective(s). Here it is.
The first section is a lot of links to other pages on this site. Specifics on countries and stories of our travels. Down below, the second section provides a general overview of what we found on our travels. There's a third section with a few details about the route we chose, too.
Questions, comments, enthusiastic disagreement with what we've captured? Leave us a comment way below (or send us an email).
Happy trails!
SECTION 1: LOTS AND LOTS OF LINKS
1A: Getting started
Visa guide
Gear used
1B: South Africa
Country guide
Expenses
Post 1
Post 2
1C: Namibia
Country guide
Expenses
Post 1
Post 2
1D: Botswana
Country guide
Expenses
Post 1
Post 2
1E: Zambia
Country guide
Expenses
Post 1
Post 2
1F: Malawi
Country guide
Expenses
Post 1
Post 2
1G: Tanzania
Country guide
Expenses
Post 1
Post 2
SECTION 2: WHAT TO EXPECT WHEN BIKE TOURING (SOUTHERN AND EASTERN) AFRICA
Overview
2A: Weather
2B: Cycling
2C: Sleeping
2D: Eating
2E: Drinking
2F: Communicating
2G: Spending
2H: Seeing & doing
2I: Staying safe
SECTION 3: A FEW OTHER THINGS ABOUT OUR ROUTE
3A: Route maps
3B: Route statistics . .
SOUTH AFRICA
South Africa was the first country we cycled through on our 'round-the-world bike ride. We had plenty of fun at times, but were downright miserable at other points. It's tough to say how much of this was the tough adjustment to life on a bike, the (rather difficult) route we chose, and/or the challenges of South Africa in general. But for better or worse, here are our cycle-centric thoughts on the (western edges of) the country.
Where we went: Smitswinkelbaii - Cape Town - Veldriff - Elannsbai - Clanwilliam - Doringbos - Loeriesfontein - Niewoudtville - Pofadder - Onseepkans
When we went: July 2017 .
[INSERT KOMOOT BLOCK]
What we liked: There's a tremendous diversity of scenery (and people!). The Cape Town area is just beautiful. There are plenty of peaceful, quiet roads in the northwest.
What we didn't like: The unpaved roads are in terrible condition. Winter riding means long, cold nights. Lots of land is fenced off, making wild camping difficult.
What we wish we'd done differently: Taking the Garden Route east of Cape Town would probably have been much more scenic and enjoyable. We should have drank more South African wine. Our route through the Cederbergs and the Karoo was pretty and quiet, but the roads were really rough for the very start of a long-distance journey.
Weather
From the Cape to the coast to the arid, elevated Karoo, the weather in western South Africa varied a bit. Generally, the days in July (winter in the southern hemisphere) were warm (between XC and YC) and the nights just about freezing (OC). South Africans we met en route seemed gravely concerned about our ability to survive the frigid nights in a tent, but we stayed fairly comfortable in our -XC sleeping bags and a few layers. Generally, the temperature plunged as soon as the sun went down, and climbed quickly after the first few hours of daybreak.
Winds on our northbound route were never unreasonable, but (as is often the case) we noticed more headwinds than tailwinds. Prevailing winds appeared to be slightly southbound, and gusts were stronger on the coast than inland. We only experienced rain once, overnight while camping right on the beach.
Despite the brisk evenings, July seemed a good time to bike western South Africa, as the (often cloudless) days remained cool enough to cycle comfortably. Our main gripe with the season was sunlight; in winter, South Africa gets very little of it. Sunset is about 5:30PM, and as things don't start to warm up until a few hours after sunrise, we were only left with eight or nine hours of daylight for riding (and many long nights in the tent).
Cycling
Western South Africa had a wide range of road conditions. We avoided the busy N7 to Namibia (though paved, it offers no shoulder and seemed unsafe for cycling), opting for a more meandering route from south of Cape Town to the Onseepkans border crossing. The sealed roads in and around Cape Town were well-maintained but terrifying to bike through, with plenty of traffic and no way out of the city other than on major highways. Later on, bike paths emerged, and those tar roads without bike lanes offered a decent shoulder.
Gravel roads became more common east of the Cederbergs (around Doringbos), and were generally pretty atrocious all the way to the border. Expect lots of corrugation, fist- and melon-sized rocks scattered about the road, and (particularly in crossing the Great Karoo), lots of deep sand. The 280-kilometer stretch from Loeriesfontein to Pofadder was remarkably quiet, and at times we went a full day without seeing a person or vehicle. The final fifty kilometers from Pofadder to the border were absolutely horrendous.
It's difficult to cycle from Cape Town to Namibia without doing a fair bit of climbing. Our 889-kilometer route included 6,190 meters of ascents and 5,860 meters of descents.
Bike shops are plentiful in Cape Town and the surrounding area. While even the smallest towns in northwestern South Africa still had a mechanic that might know how to fix a bike, one would be hard-pressed to find replacement bike parts crossing the Karoo.
Probably due to the strange, remote route we traveled through South Africa (compared to the more popular Garden Route), we met no other bike tourers on our ride.
Sleeping
Wild camping: We camped most nights. Finding wild camping spots was more difficult in the populated area around Cape Town (we were told to move once after camping too close to a power plant; another night, we were kindly granted permission to camp right behind an Engen petrol station). Throughout western South Africa, virtually all land was fenced off in large-scale farming operations. Some fences were low enough to haul us and our bikes over; others were barbed. At night, most of the minor roads don't get much traffic, and it was easy to camp right near the road under the cover of darkness. South Africans told us we were surely be murdered if we wild camped, but we never felt unsafe
Campgrounds: The campgrounds we stayed at were very empty, but well-kept and pleasant. Pricing was per person (the rate for two people was twice the rate of one person), and a site for two typically cost between 100ZAR and 200ZAR total. Most towns we stopped in had at least one campground (occasionally attached to a guesthouse or hotel).
Guesthouses and hotels: Like campgrounds, pricing was per person (usually about 50% more for double-occupancy). Towns tended to have a few guesthouses not listed online that were cheaper than those searchable on Google Maps. We were able to haggle a little on guesthouse pricing (getting a better deal for staying two nights), but not at the one hotel we stayed at. Both were a little over-budget for us, with a night at a basic self-catering guesthouse coming out to about 400ZAR and a night at a hotel around 800ZAR.
Warmshowers and Couchsurfing: The Cape Town area has some really wonderful hosts. Hosts were either nonexistent (Warmshowers) or non-active (Couchsurfing) the further north we went.
Communicating
South Africa's a big, diverse place, and we can't possibly generalize about all its people. We met many who were astonishingly warm and friendly (including our hosts in the Cape). As we traveled further north (and into less-visited areas), people were perhaps less outgoing, but then again, we were a pair of strange-looking, strange-smelling Americans in the middle of the desert on bicycles. We didn't necessarily forge any lasting connections during most of our time cycling the country, but we never found anyone hostile or mean toward us.
It's important to note that South Africa is still grappling with a host of racial, political, and socioeconomic issues stemming from centuries of colonialism and apartheid. The issue of race came up constantly in casual conversations with South Africans, and white South Africans appeared to harbor tremendous fear and distrust toward non-white South Africans (the inverse also seemed true). As white travelers, we weren't given any hassle about wild camping or just moving about, but the experience of travelers of color, unfortunately, might vary quite a bit.
South Africans speak a tremendous array of languages. In the western regions, whites generally speak Afrikaans and blacks generally speak Xhosa (and, often, Afrikaans as well). Almost everyone we met spoke enough English for us to communicate.
South and west of the Cederbergs and the Karoo, cell service and wifi was pretty common. Further north, both could be more difficult to come by.
Eating & drinking
As a vegan and a vegetarian traveling on a budget, we missed out on most of what South African cuisine had to offer. Brai (barbecue) was everywhere, and supposedly delicious. Though Cape Town had plenty of non-meat options, these became much rarer the further north we cycled. Restaurants served french fries or not-so-great pizza, but not much else that we could eat.
Most towns had a grocery. The Spar chain usually presented the largest and best selection (though also the most expensive). Our easy-to-find staples included bread, peanut butter, spaghetti, sweet potatoes, onions, marrows (baby zucchini), and chips. We powered our multifuel stove (an MSR Dragonfly) with unleaded gasoline, unable to find white gas anywhere (though we never searched too hard). We were told South Africans called white gas benzine (but not benzene, which is different and very hazardous).
The tap water was safe to drink wherever we went.
Spending
Our budget in South Africa was 270ZAR (about 20USD) per day for the two of us. We were able to stay under-budget by mostly cooking for ourselves and camping the majority of nights (including wild camping), but had to remain very cost-conscious throughout the country. Groceries were affordable (50ZAR for an 800g jar of peanut butter, 18ZAR for a loaf of bread, 12 ZAR for a pack of spaghetti), and wine was very inexpensive.
We paid for things mostly in cash, and didn't have too much trouble finding ATMs in town. Even in more remote areas, credit cards were generally accepted at larger businesses.
Here's a day-to-day record of what we spent while we were in South Africa. [LINK]
Seeing & doing
The Cape is just beautiful, and we hear wonderful things about the Garden Route east of Cape Town. Our route north was scenic along the coast and within the Cederbergs, with occasional stretches of plain, sandy desert further north.
There's plenty to do in Cape Town, and tons of vineyards to visit just a little east of town (which we missed out on). Venturing north, there aren't very many sights or activities: just lots and lots of sand, gravel, and hills. If you're looking for game drives, wildlife, and breathtaking coastal views, east from Cape Town is probably a better direction to go.
Entering & exiting
As Americans, we were granted free ninety-day entry to South Africa upon arrival at the Cape Town International Airport. We stayed 23 days and crossed into Namibia, at the quiet Onseepkans border, without any trouble.
Staying safe
South Africans seemed very concerned for our safety, and we were repeatedly cautioned about the country's crime rate (which is, indeed, higher than most others). That said, at no point in South Africa did we feel in danger or threatened.
The regions of western South Africa we traveled through didn't have any large wildlife to worry about. We saw rodents, horses, cattle, and plenty of sheep, but nothing that kept us from camping (or, for that matter, leaving food in our tent).
Outside of Cape Town, drivers were fast but courteous. Most would give us some room when passing and a quick beep of the horn to alert us of their presence. In the more remote stretches of northwestern South Africa, roads were empty for hours at a time, and we often stopped right in the middle of the road without worrying about traffic.
In quieter areas, carrying enough water was important. Rivers noted on maps all ran dry during the winter, and the only reliable resupply points for food and water were towns. The distances in between could be vast and slow-going.
We drank water from the taps and never had any problems.
Further reading
Our travel stories about South Africa, though very specific to our trip, might offer a few more details about what to expect on a bike ride through the country. Here they are.
Cape Town -
-
-
-
Questions about anything we covered (or didn't cover)? Leave us a comment below!
NAMIBIA
Namibia was the second country we cycled through on our 'round-the-world bike ride. Having traveled extensively (by car) in western and central Namibia (and wanting to avoid the busy main road to Windhoek), we opted to explore the much quieter eastern edge of the country. This entailed over seven hundred kilometers of riding on rough gravel roads, which slowed our pace and made cycling a bit less enjoyable. We wouldn't necessarily recommend the route we traveled to someone new to Namibia (or unpaved roads), but here's what we thought about it for anyone considering something similar.
Where we went: Veloorsdrif - Karasburg - Koes - Gochas - Stampriet - Leonardville - Gobabis - Buitepos
When we went: August 2017
[INSERT KOMOOT BLOCK]
What we liked: It's safe, friendly, and quiet. Wild camping couldn't be easier. Though western Namibia has more dramatic scenery, eastern Namibia is plenty pretty.
What we didn't like: Our route featured lots and lots of rough gravel and deep sand. Distances between towns and resupply points could be really vast. A lot of land was fenced off for large-scale farming operations.
What we wish we'd done differently: Namibian farmers are reportedly very hospitable, but their homes were often set back far from the road and we didn't want to trouble them for water or a place to camp. This meant we carried more water than we necessarily needed, and missed out on meeting people. Had we not already traveled in western Namibia, we probably would have regretted which side of the country we chose to bike, too. Due to prevailing winds, cycling south would have been a better direction to travel.
Weather
August in Namibia was a very pleasant time of year. Days were warm (between YC and ZC), but never too hot, and nights could be quite cool (as low as XC), but never colder than we could handle. It didn't rain a single drop while we were in the country, and clouds were rare. Packing sunscreen is a very good idea.
We definitely experienced headwinds in Namibia, almost every day, and locals confirmed that the prevailing winds blow south and that August is the windiest month of the year. Winds tended to pick up mid-morning and be worst in the afternoon, so we'd try to get started very early and get a headstart on the headwinds. Sometimes this worked; sometimes it did not.
Cycling
Namibia has very few tar roads. The main road toward WIndhoek (the B_) is well-paved but offers no shoulder and plenty of traffic. Rather than fight to share the road with fast-moving drivers, we opted to journey north through eastern Namibia, which was almost entirely unpaved.
Road conditions varied. In practice, Namibia names its road on a clever lettering system: B roads are tar and maintained regularly, C roads are decent gravel and maintained occasionally, D roads are poor gravel and maintained rarely, and F roads are really just passable by 4x4s or mountain bikes. M roads could be a little of everything. That said, we rode plenty of D roads that were better than C roads. A few C roads were actually paved. Some M roads were quite good, and others were almost impassable.
If riding D roads (or even certain C roads), expect to push a bike through deep sand every now and then. We rode 700c x 50mm Schwalbe Marathon Mondial tires, and these handled quite well, but anything narrower probably wouldn't cut it.
When and where we were traveling, we were told that the Namibian government had recently made cuts to the road works department, and thus C roads were in worse condition than they should ordinarily be. It's unclear how long that reduction in road maintenance might last.
ZAMBIA
What we liked: The people were really warm and generous. Fresh tomatoes and onions were sold on the side of the road, and water pumps were never far away. The scenery and greenery (and even the hills) were a welcome reprieve from the flat dry brush of Botswana.
What we didn't like: It was really hot (sometimes even at night). In the south, people drove very recklessly and we had several near collisions. In the east (particularly near the Luangwe River), the road felt like an endless series of ups and downs.
What we wish we'd done differently: October is the hottest month in Zambia, and the winds all blow in from the east. Cycling in the other direction, and at any other time of year, would have made the riding more enjoyable.
Eating
Throughout Namibia and Botswana, we'd often haul days worth of food in our panniers, most of it processed and packaged. So we loved entering Zambia and seeing small roadside stands selling fresh tomatoes and onions (and occasionally potatoes, cucumbers, or lettuce) almost every five or ten kilometers. We'd pick up buns or bread every few days and make ourselves plenty of tomato and onion sandwiches during our long days of cycling.
Most villages along the road had a small market (often several) with limited food choices. These were good places to stock up on bread, peanut butter, potatoes, packaged snacks, and cold drinks, but not much else.
Like Botswana to the south and Malawi to the east, the staple of Zambians (eaten for almost every meal) was n'shima. It's made from maize flour and served with a dipping relish (beans, kale [called rape], or several types of meat). It was filling and cheap (typically 10 or 15 ZMW for a big portion almost anywhere), though (to us) fell short of delicious. Peanuts (called ground nuts) were plentiful and could be eaten fresh or fried. Peanut butter in Zambia was also pretty cheap. Breakfast was often a maize porridge, though we were able to stock up on oats in the larger towns.
As a vegan and a vegetarian, we got by okay. There were some decent restaurants in Livingstone and plenty in Lusaka.
Drinking
Most Zambians got their water from boreholes, hand-operated pumps found in or near villages. Kids were really eager to work the pumps as we filled our bottles. Water from some pumps had a bit of an iron taste to it (which we still drank); others tasted fine. Petrol stations and police stations were often good places to find an outdoor spigot. Elsewhere, we filled our water bottles straight from the tap. We never filtered our water and nev